EXPERTISE IS...
At IVISLaBS® :
We conduct photostability and free radical stability tests to assess the product’s resistance. In vivo tests, such as hydration, skin elasticity, and skin microcirculation, measure the effectiveness of the treatments. Sensory analysis evaluates organoleptic properties.
The chemical composition is analyzed using various spectroscopic and chromatographic techniques. Physicochemical properties such as viscosity, surface tension, and flash point are also determined. We also characterize texture through rheology and tribology.
Our tests :
ISO 24443: 2021
ISO 24443: 2021 is the official method for in vitro UVAPF measurement, and it gives in vitro SPF value, UVA-PF value, and critical wavelength.
These measurements provides precious information about the formula such as the absorbance according to wavelength, the photostability of the filters and the SPF/UVA-PF ratio, and is timesaving and costsaving for the development of your formula before starting in vivo testing.
PHOTOSTABILITY WITH SOLAR SIMULATOR
Photostability is an important parameter for both final products and raw materials, to ensure the properties of the product will remain the same through time, from efficiency to organoleptic aspect.
Photostability is necessary to take into account to choose the right packaging for your product. Tests are performed using our xenon lamp.
PHOTOSTABILITY WITH DAYLIGHT
The photostability test with daylight completes the solar simulator test.
Some compounds are extremely sensible to light.
FREE RADICALS STABILITY TEST
Substances used in cosmetic formulation, especially vegetable oils, are sensible to oxidation and can release free radicals and alter the integrity of the formula.
This test shows the presence of free radicals in the product without treatment and the possible release of free radicals during exposition to xenon lamp.
INFRARED CAMERA
With our infrared camera we measure the temperature of objects or skin areas and provide the related images showing temperature variations.
The purpose is to support the claim of a cooling or heating effect several dozen mesurements are possible per settings.
SEBUM
Sebum is a natural component of the skin but excess of sebum is not appreciated. A direct measure of sebaceous glands secretion using a photometric method determines the sebum level of the skin and scalp, the importance of sebum reduction and how long the effect last.
This is the ideal test for sebum reduction skincare and mattifying powders or clay masks.
SKIN COLOR
Melanin and hemoglobin are the two chromophores responsible for skin color and radiance. With our in vivo colorimeter we can measure the color parameters of a specific area and melanin and erythema index.
With this test we are able to evaluate the effect of your product on skin lightness (scrubs, peelings, anti-dark spots), anti-redness properties and long lasting wear of make-up and self-tans.
SKIN ULTRASOUND
With the ultrasound aspect of the skin we are able to measure the skin thickness and its density, by sending an acoustic signal to the skin.
This signal will be retransmitted and absorbed according to the structure of the skin. This device also allows to visualize the different layers and to see the density of the dermis with the collagen network.
SKIN ELASTICITY
Elasticity loss is one of the main characteristics of skin aging. The elasticity of the skin is determined before and after the application of a cosmetic product.
A suction cup measures the necessary force needed to lift the skin a certain distance using negative pressure, and the retraction time it takes for the skin to retract when the pressure is released.
TEWL (TRANSEPIDERMAL WATER LOSS)
TransEpidermal Water Loss is the other main parameter after measurement of hydration to study for products targeting skin moisture.
We measure the quantity of water evaporating the skin superficial layers and the impact of the product on the reduction of water loss.
HYDRATION
Moisturizing effect is one of the primordial properties of a cosmetic product.
We measure the effect on the product on stratum corneum conductivity and how long the effect last.
IN SITU SKIN OBSERVATION
We use Dual Laser Confocal Microscopy (DLCM) to observe the different layers of the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction, papillary dermis and reticular dermis. This technology allows us to visualize different structures: keratinocytes, melanocytes, dermal papillas, blood capillaries and collagen fibers. We perform several measures according to your needs and requests to assess the properties of your products on collagen synthesis, on the aspect of keratinocytes, and with the counting of red blood cells passing through blood capillaries we are able to quantify the effect of the studied product on local microcirculation.
SEM WRINKLES
To evaluate the reduction of wrinkles or the smoothing effect of a formula on fine lines, we take prints of the skin surface and measure the depth and width of the relief with our Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM).
This test suits especially anti-aging cares, primers and moisturizers.
SEM HAIR VOLUME
The hair volume test is indicated for hair products especially, but also for other products to visualize the effect of the formula on keratin cuticles.
Aspect and width of a hair are measured by observing the sample with our Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) to provide high precision values.
ZETA POTENTIAL
Zeta potential is the particle charge in colloids, nanoparticles and biomolecular particles. It helps to anticipate the stability of emulsions and suspensions, but also to determine the skin diffusion factor, the ability of a formula to vectorize actives through the different layers of the skin. Because of the skin surface electronegativity, compounds that are also electronegative will flee the surface by penetrating through the different layers of the epidermis. On the contrary, electropositive compounds will remain at the surface of the skin. Zeta potential is generally measured at skin physiological pH 5,3 to predict the behavior of the product on stratum corneum, pH 6 and plasmatic pH 7,38 to predict the behavior of the product around the eye area or within the cells. Zeta potential measurements are fast and help you to save time during your stability studies.
RHEOLOGY
Knowledge about the rheological behavior of raw materials or finished products is essential to forecast how the product will behave in storage and at the time of application in terms of texture and spreadability.
Depending on the nature of the product, the rheometer analyzes viscoelastic properties, gel strength, stability and thixotropy.
SURFACE TENSION
Surface tension is the property of a liquid to shrink into the minimum surface area and to form droplet.
This parameter completes the knowledge on spreadability and wetting properties of a raw material or finished product.
DSC
Differential Scanning Calorimetry is used to follow a product behavior depending on temperature and highlights physicochemical properties such as melting point, recrystallization point, oxidation induction time, glass transition or degradation.
It also gives information about the impact of storage conditions on products and to predict the product behavior on the skin.
VOLATILITY
Volatility is measured to know how prone is the product to vaporize into ambient air.
It is essential information for the choice of the right packaging.
DYNAMIC AND KINEMATIC VISCOSITY
Dynamic and kinematic viscosity are complementary analysis used to measure the resistance to deformation of fluids at a given velocity gradient and gravitational force.
They are used to characterize raw materials or finished products.
FLASH POINT
Flash point is the lowest temperature at which a combustible material ignites for selfsustaining combustion in ambient air. The flammability tester covers a wide range of temperatures (-30°C to 400°C) and tests according to standardized methods for the cosmetic industry (ISO 2719).
All types of materials can be analyzed, allowing being compliant with transport regulation.
DENSITY AND REFRACTION INDEX
Density and refractive index of liquid or fluid compositions are one of the basic measurements to characterize and compare different products.
PATICLE SIZE DISTRIBUTION
PSD measures the size of the particles in a powder sample and the distribution of different sizes.
It allows enhancing rheology performance of final compositions.
RAMAN SPECTROSCOPY
Raman spectroscopy is a diffusion spectroscopy, which allows characterizing the molecular composition and the external structure of a material, and is complementary to IR spectroscopy.
ULTRA VIOLET SPECTROSCOPYX
The UV spectrophotometer gives quantitative results about the absorption spectrum depending on wavelength of raw materials and finished products.
It is used to determine chemical functions, identify impurities and compare different compounds.
INFRARED SPECTROSCOPYX
The infrared spectrophotometer is used to characterize and control of chemical compounds or finished products by measuring their absorption in the IR spectrum, especially to determine the chemical functions of a product and to identify an unknown product or impurities.
OSMOLALITY
Osmolality is the concentration of particles dissolved in a fluid. Osmotic pressure is the phenomenon that regulates the fluid exchanges between intra and extracellular compartment.
The respect of plasmatic osmolality is therefore important to ensure the good hydrating properties of a skincare, and especially to ensure it doesn’t damage the cells.
TRIBOLOGY
Tribological properties are studied to determine the friction and lubrication behavior of a cosmetic product on skin surface.
It is essential to compare texture and spreadability performances between products, and completes rheology analysis.
OSI
The measurement of the Oxidative Stability Index gives indication in the resistance of fats and oils to oxidation.
These data allow the screening of antioxidants, optimization of mixtures, shelf-life determination and products valorization, in order to select the best lipophilic ingredients, to create safe and efficient cosmetic products.
SENSORY ANALYSIS TESTS
Sensory analysis provides you precious information about the organoleptic properties of your products, in all its dimensions: visual, olfactory, and touch.
With sensory analysis we compare your products to a benchmark or between them, describe their characteristics and score and rank them.
PENETROMETER
The penetrometer is used to determine the plasticity and resistance to deformation (penetration) of pasty, creamy, semi-solid or highly viscous samples against the application of force. It can be used for the evaluation and analysis of raw materials or finished products.
Penetrometer is complementary with DSC to measure hardness of waxes, lipsticks or lip balms.