OUR Testing

Insightful Analysis, Meaningful Results

Photostability Testing

This analysis determines if a finished product or ingredient maintains efficacy and properties when exposed to light irradiation simulating real-life conditions.

Volatility

Volatility is measured to know how prone is the product to vaporize into ambient air. It is

essential information for the choice of the right packaging.

Skin Hydration Analysis

This test accurately measures a product's efficacy to hydrate skin by assessing conductivity of the stratum corneum.

ULTRA-VIOLET SPECTROSCOPY

The UV spectrophotometer gives quantitative results about the absorption spectrum depending on wavelength of raw materials and finished products.

Skin Elasticity Test

This technique analyzes a product's impact on improving skin elasticity, a key marker of aging. It provides data on firmness, tone and tensor effect of anti-aging formulas.

DENSITY AND REFRACTION INDEX

Density and refractive index of liquid or fluid compositions are one of the basic

measurements to characterize and compare different products.

SPF and Critical Wavelength Determination

We accurately evaluate SPF, UVA-PF and critical wavelength in vitro following ISO 24443 to characterize sun protection.

PENETROMETER

The penetrometer is used to determine the plasticity and resistance to deformation of pasty, creamy, semi-solid or highly viscous samples against the application of force.

OUR APPROACH

our company is here to help you

Our broad range of tests supports our clients at every stage of product development, from formulation to final quality control. We provide accurate and reliable data to optimize performance and ensure high quality products.

Ivislabs-Atlas

OUR Testing

The list of all our tests

ISO 24443: 2021 is the official method for in vitro UVAPF measurement, and it gives in

vitro SPF value, UVA-PF value, and critical wavelength. These measurements provides

precious information about the formula such as the absorbance according to wavelength,

the photostability of the filters and the SPF/UVA-PF ratio, and is timesaving and cost

saving for the development of your formula before starting in vivo testing.

Photostability is an important parameter for both final products and raw materials, to ensure

the properties of the product will remain the same through time, from efficiency to

organoleptic aspect. Photostability is necessary to take into account to choose the right

packaging for your product. Tests are performed using our xenon lamp.

The photostability test with daylight completes the solar simulator test. Some

compounds are extremely sensible to light.

Substances used in cosmetic formulation, especially vegetable oils, are sensible to oxidation

and can release free radicals and alter the integrity of the formula. This test shows the

presence of free radicals in the product without treatment and the possible release of free

radicals during exposition to xenon lamp.

Sebum is a natural component of the skin but excess of sebum is not appreciated. A direct

measure of sebaceous glands secretion using a photometric method determines the sebum

level of the skin and scalp, the importance of sebum reduction and how long the effect

last. This is the ideal test for sebum reduction skincare and mattifying powders or clay

masks.

Sebum is a natural component of the skin but excess of sebum is not appreciated. A direct

measure of sebaceous glands secretion using a photometric method determines the sebum

level of the skin and scalp, the importance of sebum reduction and how long the effect

last.

This is the ideal test for sebum reduction skincare and mattifying powders or clay masks.

Melanin and hemoglobin are the two chromophores responsible for skin color and

radiance. With our in vivo colorimeter we can measure the color parameters of a specific

area and melanin and erythema index. With this test we are able to evaluate the effect of

your product on skin lightness (scrubs, peelings, anti-dark spots), anti-redness properties

and long lasting wear of make-up and self-tans.

With the ultrasound aspect of the skin we are able to measure the skin thickness and its

density, by sending an acoustic signal to the skin. This signal will be retransmitted and

absorbed according to the structure of the skin. This device also allows to visualize the

different layers and to see the density of the dermis with the collagen network.

Ideac

Elasticity loss is one of the main characteristics of skin aging. The elasticity of the skin is

determined before and after the application of a cosmetic product. A suction cup measures

the necessary force needed to lift the skin a certain distance using negative pressure, and

the retraction time it takes for the skin to retract when the pressure is released.

TransEpidermal Water Loss is the other main parameter after measurement of hydration to

study for products targeting skin moisture. We measure the quantity of water evaporating

the skin superficial layers and the impact of the product on the reduction of water loss.

Moisturizing effect is one of the primordial properties of a cosmetic product. We measure

the effect on the product on stratum corneum conductivity and how long the effect last.

We use Dual Laser Confocal Microscopy (DLCM) to observe the different layers of the

epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction, papillary dermis and reticular dermis. This

technology allows us to visualize different structures: keratinocytes, melanocytes, dermal

papillas, blood capillaries and collagen fibers.

We perform several measures according to your needs and requests to assess the properties

of your products on collagen synthesis, on the aspect of keratinocytes, and with the

counting of red blood cells passing through blood capillaries we are able to quantify the

effect of the studied product on local microcirculation.

To evaluate the reduction of wrinkles or the smoothing effect of a formula on fine lines,

we take prints of the skin surface and measure the depth and width of the relief with our

Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM). This test suits especially anti-aging cares, primers

and moisturizers.

The hair volume test is indicated for hair products especially, but also for other products to

visualize the effect of the formula on keratin cuticles. Aspect and width of a hair are

measured by observing the sample with our Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM) to

provide high precision values.

Zeta potential is the particle charge in colloids, nanoparticles and biomolecular

particles. It helps to anticipate the stability of emulsions and suspensions, but also to

determine the skin diffusion factor, the ability of a formula to vectorize actives through the

different layers of the skin. Because of the skin surface electronegativity, compounds that

are also electronegative will flee the surface by penetrating through the different layers of

the epidermis. On the contrary, electropositive compounds will remain at the surface of the

skin. Zeta potential is generally measured at skin physiological pH 5,3 to predict the

behavior of the product on stratum corneum, pH 6 and plasmatic pH 7,38 to predict the

behavior of the product around the eye area or within the cells. Zeta potential

measurements are fast and help you to save time during your stability studies.

Knowledge about the rheological behavior of raw materials or finished products is

essential to forecast how the product will behave in storage and at the time of application in

terms of texture and spreadability. Depending on the nature of the product, the rheometer

analyzes viscoelastic properties, gel strength, stability and thixotropy.

Surface tension is the property of a liquid to shrink into the minimum surface area and to

form droplet. This parameter completes the knowledge on spreadability and wetting

properties of a raw material or finished product.

Differential Scanning Calorimetry is used to follow a product behavior depending on

temperature and highlights physicochemical properties such as melting point,

recrystallization point, oxidation induction time, glass transition or degradation. It also

gives information about the impact of storage conditions on products and to predict the

product behavior on the skin.

Volatility is measured to know how prone is the product to vaporize into ambient air. It is

essential information for the choice of the right packaging.

Dynamic and kinematic viscosity are complementary analysis used to measure the

resistance to deformation of fluids at a given velocity gradient and gravitational force. They

are used to characterize raw materials or finished products.

Flash point is the lowest temperature at which a combustible material ignites for

selfsustaining combustion in ambient air. The flammability tester covers a wide range of

temperatures (-30°C to 400°C) and tests according to standardized methods for the

cosmetic industry (ISO 2719). All types of materials can be analyzed, allowing being

compliant with transport regulation.

Density and refractive index of liquid or fluid compositions are one of the basic

measurements to characterize and compare different products.

PSD measures the size of the particles in a powder sample and the distribution of

different sizes. It allows enhancing rheology performance of final compositions.

Raman spectroscopy is a diffusion spectroscopy, which allows characterizing the

molecular composition and the external structure of a material, and is complementary to

IR spectroscopy.

The UV spectrophotometer gives quantitative results about the absorption spectrum

depending on wavelength of raw materials and finished products. It is used to determine

chemical functions, identify impurities and compare different compounds.

The infrared spectrophotometer is used to characterize and control of chemical

compounds or finished products by measuring their absorption in the IR spectrum,

especially to determine the chemical functions of a product and to identify an unknown

product or impurities.

Osmolality is the concentration of particles dissolved in a fluid. Osmotic pressure is the

phenomenon that regulates the fluid exchanges between intra and extracellular

compartment. The respect of plasmatic osmolality is therefore important to ensure the

good hydrating properties of a skincare, and especially to ensure it doesn’t damage the

cells.

Tribological properties are studied to determine the friction and lubrication behavior of

a cosmetic product on skin surface. It is essential to compare texture and spreadability

performances between products, and completes rheology analysis.

The measurement of the Oxidative Stability Index gives indication in the resistance of

fats and oils to oxidation. These data allow the screening of antioxidants, optimization

of mixtures, shelf-life determination and products valorization, in order to select the

best lipophilic ingredients, to create safe and efficient cosmetic products.

Sensory analysis provides you precious information about the organoleptic properties of

your products, in all its dimensions: visual, olfactory, and touch. With sensory analysis we

compare your products to a benchmark or between them, describe their characteristics

and score and rank them.

The penetrometer is used to determine the plasticity and resistance to deformation

(penetration) of pasty, creamy, semi-solid or highly viscous samples against the application

of force. It can be used for the evaluation and analysis of raw materials or finished products.

Penetrometer is complementary with DSC to measure hardness of waxes, lipsticks or lip

balms.